Having assisted the ladies with useful hints for themselves, I will now offer a few remarks to enable them to employ their leisure in doing something for husbands, brothers, &c. It is a constant complaint amongst the gentlemen that it is quite impossible to get a decent-fitting shirt made at home. I do not think that wives or daughters are unwilling to make a shirt; but what appears to me to be most wanting is a good pattern, and a few hints how to put it together. I will therefore now proceed to explain this as clearly as possible. A man that has once worn an easy, good-fitting shirt, is not likely to wear one that sets badly in front, or that drags on the shoulders--two very common faults. A garment well made will last twice as long as an ill-fitting one; and it is necessary that a shirt should admit of the arms and body being moved in any direction. Calico or linen cut the wrong way of the thread will tear immediately. Some persons join pieces that they know to be wrong, but they do it for economy; this, however, should not on any account be done. Those who are in the habit of cutting out shirts by the dozen have an advantage over those who cut a smaller number; but, by a little thinking before you begin to cut, all can be done well and right. I have frequently noted that errors in cutting out any article proceed more from want of attention than ability to do it right. The fixing of needlework in general is too much neglected, and by the very persons who require it the most. A clever needle-woman fixed carefully her work with small pins or tacking thread; while those who can scarcely work at all never think of putting a pin or [p]acking thread. This must be carefully attended to before you can make a shirt well. Many persons look only at the sewing. There are, however, two things to be considered before the sewing: first, to carefully cut out the shirt; and then fit it well together, putting fulness where there should be fulness, and plain where it ought to be plain. If a gentleman has already a shirt that fits him, so much the better. You must unpick half of it, and carefully cut your calico or longcloth like it. By keeping one-half of your shirt not unpicked, it will show you the proper places for fulness. This is of great importance; for if the fulness or gathers are not put in the proper place, a drag will be the consequence. Those who know a little of dressmaking will find it an advantage in assisting them to make a good fitting shirt. I will now give some instructions how to proceed.
Fronts, collars, and wristbands should all be cut out at one time, and, if possible, stitched and finished before the bodies and sleeves first. The stitching will look better if done by one person. Regular shirtmakers keep different hands to do different parts of the shirt. The reason for this is, the hand with practice in stitching becomes perfect; whereas, if you go from running to hemming, and from hemming to stitching, your work will never look well. Many persons will say, "I would rather finish one shirt first." This I agree to; but if the fronts and wristbands of all the shirts are first prepared, the making will appear less tedious. In cutting out your shirt you must mark carefully with a red or soft black lead pencil round your paper pattern before you begin to cut. By doing this, when you come to put the different parts of your shirt together, they cannot fail to fit. The paper pattern should be the exact size of the shirt. When put together, you will require to leave small turnings beyond the paper. Do no part of your shirt without measuring; you will find it a very easy affair to recollect the inches. Accustom yourself in cutting any article to measure all before you begin to work. Most of the shirts now made are intended to be worn with loose collars; these are the most easy to make fit. The fault in the fitting of the shirt very often arises from the slope in front of the neck; for instance, a man with a long neck will require very little sloping. But to save yourself any anxiety, have a good pattern, copy it, and when one shirt is finished, get it washed, and let it be worn; you will then very soon perceive if any trifling alteration is required.
Created by Hope Greenberg. Last updated: 11 March 1997. Go to Mrs. Damas' Hints for Dressmakers: Complete List of Topics.